There’s a nip in the breeze whilst pulling into this small residential area in Porthcawl. A winter sun sits low in the sky and a golden light slowly begins to warm the tarmac underfoot. After a brief look at a surf report, numerous instagram messages and a late night drive to borrow a tele lens, I’m here.
Finally, I get to shoot some surf stuff!
This has been something I’ve wanted to do since the turn of the new year. Ezra, a work colleague of Abi’s and all round good guy, was kind enough to have me along for the morning whilst the swell was good. I say this about the swell, I never really mastered surfing, so it could’ve been naff for all I know.
Still, ignorance aside, the morning was spent with the wind in my face and vast quantities of sea water seeping into my boots.
It felt real good to be back by the sea again. I’d left it far too long. There’s something about the lifestyle these guys live that takes me back to simpler times when I was younger. Living each day as it came and using whatever money friends and I had to go jump in the sea and enjoy a fire come sun down.
It’s that feeling from my youth that I want to seek out more often.
Anyone who follows me on Instagram will know that I’ve had a huge reset recently and have had to evaluate the way I approach my work. Where as before it was trying to balance creativity with business, I’ve now unscrewed my business head in order to seek out more creativity.
This rekindled feeling from my youth is helping me focus on what makes me really happy.
I miss being out in the wild every weekend. Discovering new places, chatting to complete strangers and generally being made to feel insignificant by the environment surrounding me. I feel more creative and present in these situations. Just like my teen years. Living for the moment and enjoying life. This Sunday morning spent on the rocks, watching the guys through the viewfinder, felt as if I’d returned home to where I belong.
Think this is the turning point I’ve been waiting for.
I just want to say thank you to Ezra and the guys for having me along and letting me ram a camera in their faces. Same to Jamie, for lending me his tele lens. I’ve already put myself into debt just looking at longer lenses and waterproof housings. Maybe now is the perfect time to patch that hole in my wetsuit.
Below are some of my favourites, granted they’re not ground breaking as far as surf photography goes but I really love the feel of them. If you will, give this a listen while you scroll through them;
Hopefully it’ll help you get the same feeling as I get. Let me know what you think.